Remove all pressure from damaged section of pipe before attempting repair. Remove all oil, grease, loose rust scale, sealant tape, paint and hardware from the area to be repaired. (See section Preparation Methods below.) Put on latex gloves provided. (Gloves go on best when hands are dry.) Open foil pouch, (i) remove tape and drop in pail of water or (ii) pour water directly into the foil pouch To ensure water is distributed to all portions of the tape, squeeze the tape for at least 20 - 30 seconds. If using the pouch to wet tape, allow at least 1 minute to soak tape. Peel off plug backing and apply plug over break in pipe. Starting underneath the break, apply the start of the tape roll and begin to wrap the tape in a clockwise motion keeping tension applied to the tape at all times. Continue to wrap the tape moving from left to right until the leaking area has tape applied 2 inches on either side of the leaking area and has at least 8 to 10 layers of tape directly over the leak. (Use all the tape in package as tape cannot be saved for future use once foil pouch has been opened.) Once all tape has been applied to leak, grab the taped area squeezing firmly and rotate your hand in a clockwise motion. This causes all bottom layers of tape to tighten in case any of the bottom layers have become loose. Once tape tightness has been observed, step 7 need only be repeated as tape is observed to be pulling back. This will occur naturally as resin begins to foam and bubble. As foaming and bubbling stop, the tape should become very sticky causing the gloves to stick to the tape. At this point, the tape and resins are starting to cure. (In cooler temperature the foaming and bubbling will not occur as quickly as in warmer temperatures.) Allow 30-40 minutes for the final curing to occur. (At 78 degrees F.) It will take resins longer at colder temperatures. (Not exceeding 24 hours in sub-zero temperatures.) Clean up can be done at this time using alcohol or acetone. After final cure has occurred, tape can be sanded and painted for final appearance if desired.

Preparation Methods: Rough score a 4" path 360 degrees around pipe using leak as a center point. If pipe surface is pitted with rust, just remove the loose scales. If pipe is covered with paint, sealant tape or any thatch type coatings a coarse sand paper or saw blade can be used to remove the coatings completely so that the bonding area is nothing but bare pipe. If pipe is clean from any type of coating, these steps are not necessary but will create a greater bond between pipe and tape for application use.

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